No Preface
Contents
Volume IChapter I Men-of-War
Our Wooden Walls – The Victory – Siege of Toulon – Battle of St. Vincent – Nelson’s Bridge – Trafalgar’s Glorious Day – The Day for such Battles gone – Iron v. Wood – Lessons of the Crimean War – Moral Effect of the Presence of our Fleets – Bombardment of Sebastopol – Red-hot Shot and Gibraltar – The Ironclad Movement – The Warrior – Experiences with Ironclads – The Merrimac in Hampton Roads – A Speedily-decided Action – The Cumberland sunk and Congress burned – The First Monitor – Engagement with the Merrimac – Notes on Recent Actions – The Shah and Huascar – An Ironclad tackled by a Merchantman 4
Chapter II Men of Peace
Naval Life in Peace Times – A Grand Exploring Voyage – The Cruise of the Challenger – Its Work – Deep-sea Soundings – Five Miles down – Apparatus employed – Ocean Treasures – A Gigantic Sea-monster – Tristan d’Acunha – A Discovery Interesting to the Discovered – The Two Crusoes – The Inaccessible Island – Solitary Life – The Sea-cart – Swimming Pigs – Rescued at Last – The Real Crusoe Island to Let – Down South – The Land of Desolation – Kerguelen – The Sealer’s Dreary Life – In the Antarctic – Among the Icebergs 28
Chapter III The Men of the Sea
The Great Lexicographer on Sailors – The Dangers of the Sea – How Boys become Sailors – Young Amyas Leigh – The Genuine Jack Tar – Training-Ships versus the old Guard Ships – “Sea-goers and Waisters” – The Training Undergone – Routine on Board – Never-ending Work – Ship like a Lady’s Watch – Watches and “Bells” – Old Grogram and Grog – The Sailor’s Sheet Anchor – Shadows in the Seaman’s Life – The Naval Cat – Testimony and Opinion of a Medical Officer – An Example – Boy Flogging in the Navy – Shakespeare and Herbert on Sailors and the Sea 42
Chapter IV Perils of the Sailor’s Life
The Loss of the Captain – Six Hundred Souls swept into Eternity without a Warning – The Mansion and the Cottage alike Sufferers – Causes of the Disaster – Horrors of the Scene – Noble Captain Burgoyne – Narratives of Survivors – An almost Incredible Feat – Loss of the Royal George – A Great Disaster caused by a Trifle – Nine Hundred Lost – A Child saved by a Sheep – The Portholes Upright – An Involuntary Bath of Tar – Rafts of Corpses – The Vessel Blown up in 1839-40 – The Loss of the Vanguard – Half a Million sunk in Fifty Minutes – Admirable Discipline on Board – All Saved – The Court Martial 54
Chapter V Perils of the Sailor’s Life (continued)
The Value of Discipline – The Loss of the Kent – The Ship Waterlogged – Death in Two Forms – A Sail in Sight – Transference of Six Hundred Passengers to a Small Brig – Splendid Discipline of the Soldiers – Imperturbable Coolness of the Captain – Loss of the Birkenhead – Literally broken in Two – Noble Conduct of the Military – A Contrary Example – Wreck of the Medusa – Run on a Sand-bank – Panic on Board – Raft constructed – Insubordination and Selfishness – One Hundred and Fifty Souls abandoned – Drunkenness and Mutiny on the Raft – Riots and Murders – Reduced to Thirty Persons – The Stronger Part massacre of the Others – Fifteen Left – Rescued at Last – Another Contrast – Wreck of the Alceste – Admirable Conduct of the Crew – The Ironclad Movement – The Battle of the Guns 67
Chapter VI Round the World on a Man-Of-War
The Mediterranean – White, Blue, Green, and Purple Waters – Gibraltar – Its History – Its First Inhabitants the Monkeys – The Moors – The Great Siege preceded by Thirteen Others – The Voyage of Sigurd to the Holy Land – The Third Siege – Starvation – The Fourth Siege – Red-hot Balls used before ordinary Cannon-balls – The Great Plague – Gibraltar finally in Christian Hands – A Naval Action between the Dutch and Spaniards – How England won the Rock – An Unrewarded Hero – Spain’s Attempts to regain it – The Great Siege – The Rock itself and its Surroundings – The Straits – Ceuta, Gibraltar’s Rival – The Saltness of the Mediterranean – “Going aloft” – On to Malta 87
Chapter VII Round the World on a Man-of-War (continued), Malta and the Suez-Canal
Calypso’s Isle – A Convict Paradise – Malta, the “Flower of the World” – The Knights of St. John – Rise of the Order – The Crescent and the Cross – The Siege of Rhodes – L’Isle Adam in London – The Great Siege of Malta – Horrible Episodes – Malta in French and English Hands – St. Paul’s Cave – The Catacombs – Modern Incidents – The Shipwreck of St. Paul – Gales in the Mediterranean – Experiences of Nelson and Collingwood – Squalls in the Bay of San Francisco – A Man Overboard – Special Winds of the Mediterranean – The Suez Canal and M. de Lesseps – His Diplomatic Career – Said Pacha as a Boy – As a Viceroy – The Plan settled – Financial Troubles – Construction of the Canal – The Inauguration Fête – Suez – Passage of the Children of Israel through the Red Sea 98
Chapter VIII Round the World on a Man-of-War (continued), The India and China Stations
The Red Sea and its Name – Its Ports – On the India Station – Bombay: Island, City, Presidency – Calcutta – Ceylon, a Paradise – The China Station – Hong Kong – Macao – Canton – Capture of Commissioner Yeh – The Sea of Soup – Shanghai – “Jack” Ashore there – Luxuries in Market – Drawbacks: Earthquakes and Sand Showers – Chinese Explanations of Earthquakes – The Roving Life of the Sailor – Compensating Advantages – Japan and its People – The Englishmen of the Pacific – Yokohama – Peculiarities of the Japanese – Off to the North 117
Chapter IX Round the World on a Man-of-War (continued), Northward and Southward – The Australian Station
The Port of Peter and Paul – Wonderful Colouring of Kamchatka Hills – Grand Volcanoes – The Fight at Petropaulovski – A Contrast – An International Pic-nic – A Double Wedding – Bering’s Voyages – Kamchatka worthy of Further Exploration – Plover Bay – Tchuktchi Natives – Whaling – A Terrible Gale – A Novel “Smoke-stack” – Southward again – The Liverpool of the East – Singapore, a Paradise – New Harbour – Wharves and Shipping – Cruelties of the Coolie Trade – Junks and Prahus – The Kling-gharry Drivers – The Durian and its Devotess – Australia – Its Discovery – Botany Bay and the Convicts – The First Gold – Port Jackson – Beauty of Sidney – Port Philip and Melbourne 131
Chapter X Round the World on a Man-of-War (continued), The Pacific Station
Across the Pacific – Approach to the Golden Gate – The Bay of San Francisco – The City – First Dinner Ashore – Cheap Luxury – San Francisco by Night – The Land of Gold, Grain, and Grapes – Incidents of the Early Days – Expensive Papers – A Lucky Sailor – Chances for English Girls – The Baby at the Play – A capital Port for Seamen – Hospitality of Californians – Victoria, Vancouver Island – The Naval Station at Esquimalt – A Delightful Place – Advice to Intending Emigrants – British Columbia Indians – Their Fine Canoes – Experiences of the Writer – The Island on Fire – The Chinook Jargon – Indian “Pigeon-English” – North to Alaska – The Purchase of Russian America by the United States – Results – Life at Sitka – Grand Volcanoes of the Aleutian Islands – The Great Yukon River – American Trading Posts round Bering Sea 156
Chapter XI Round the World on a Man-of-War (continued), From the Horn to Halifax
The Dreaded Horn – The Land of Fire – Basil Hall’s Phenomenon – A Missing Volcano – The South American Station – Falkland Islands – A Free Port and Naval Station – Penguins, Peat, and Kelp – Sea Trees – The West Indian Station – Trinidad – Columbus’s First View of it – Fatal Gold – Charles Kingsley’s Enthusiasm – The Port of Spain – A Happy-go-lucky People – Negro Life – Letters from a Cottage Ornée – Tropical Vegetation – Animal Life – Jamaica – Kingston Harbour – Sugar Cultivation – The Queen of the Antilles – Its Paseo – Beauty of the Archipelago – A Dutch Settlement in the Heart of a Volcano – Among the Islands – The Souffrière – Historical Reminiscences – Bermuda: Colony, Fortress, and Prison – Home of Ariel and Caliban – The Whitest Place in the World – Bermuda Convicts – New York Harbour – The City – First Impressions – Its Fine Position – Splendid Harbour – Forest of Masts – The Ferry-boats, Hotels, and Bars – Offenbach’s Impressions – Broadway, Fulton Market, and Central Park – New York in Winter – Frozen Ships – The Great Brooklyn Bridge – Halifax and its Beauties – Importance of the Station – Bedford Basin – The Early Settlers – The Blue Noses – Adieu to America 175
Chapter XIII The Service – Officers’ Life on Board
Conditions of Life on Ship-board – A Model Ward-room – An Admiral’s Cabin – Captains and Captains – The Sailor and his Superior Officers – A Contrast – A Commander of the Old School – Jack Larmour – Lord Cochrane’s Experiences – His Chest curtailed – The Stinking Ship – The First Command – Shaving under Difficulties – The Speedy and her Prizes – The Doctor – On Board a Gun-boat – Cabin and Dispensary – Cockroaches and Centipedes – Other Horrors – The Naval Chaplain – His Duties – Stories of an Amateur – The Engineer – His Increasing Importance – Popularity of the Navy – Nelson always a Model Commander – The Idol of his Colleagues, Officers, and Men – Taking the Men into Confidence – The Action between the Bellona and Courageux – Captain Falknor’s Speech to the Crew – An Obsolete Custom – Crossing the Line – Neptune’s Visit to the Quarter-deck – The Navy of To-day – Its Backbone – Progressive Increase in the Size of Vessels – Naval Volunteers – A Noble Movement – Excellent Results – The Naval Reserve 214
Chapter XIV The Reverse of the Picture – Mutiny
Bligh’s Bread-fruit Expedition – Voyage of the Bounty – The Happy Islanders – First Appearance of a Mutinous Spirit – The Cutter stolen and recovered – The Bounty sails with 1,000 Trees – The Mutiny – Bligh overpowered and bound – Abandoned with Eighteen Others – Their Resources – Attacked by Natives – A Boat Voyage of 3,618 Miles – Violent Gales – Miserable Condition of the Boat’s Crew – Bread by the Ounce – Rum by the Tea-spoonful – Noddies and Boobies – “Who shall have this?” – Off the Barrier Reef – A Haven of Rest – Oyster and Palm-top Stews – Another Thousand Miles of Ocean – Arrival at Coupang – Hospitality of the Residents – Ghastly Looks of the Party – Death of Five of the Number – The Pandora dispatched to catch the Mutineers – Fourteen in Irons – Pandora’s Box – The Wreck – Great Loss of Life – Sentences of the Court Martial – The Last of the Mutineers – Pitcairn Island – A Model Settlement – Another Example: The Greatest Mutiny of History – 40,000 Disaffected Men at One Point – Causes – Legitimate Action of the Men at First – Apathy of Government – Serious Organisation – The Spithead Fleet ordered to Sea – Refusal of the Crews – Concessions made, and the First Mutiny quelled – Second Outbreak – Lorde Howe’s Tact – The Great Mutiny of the Nore – Richard Parker – A Vile Character but Man of Talent – Wins the Men to his Side – Officers flogged and ducked – Gallant Duncan’s Address – Accessions to the Mutineers – Parker practically Lord High Admiral – His Extravagant Behaviour – Alarm in London – The Movement dies out by Degrees – Parker’s Cause lost – His Execution – Mutinies at Other Stations – Prompt Action of Lords St. Vincent and Macartney 235
Chapter XV The History of Ships and Shipping Interests
The First Attempts to Float – Hollowed Logs and Rafts – The Ark and its Dimensions – Skin Floats and Basket-boats – Maritime Commerce of Antiquity – Phœnician Enterprise – Did they round the Cape? – The Ships of Tyre – Carthage – Hanno’s Voyage to the West Coast of Africa – Egyptian Galleys – The Great Ships of the Ptolemies – Hiero’s Floating Palace – The Romans – Their Repugnance to Seafaring Pursuits – Sea Battles with the Carthaginians – Cicero’s Opinions on Commerce – Constantinople and its Commerce – Venice – Britain – The First Invasion under Julius Cæsar – Benefits accruing – The Danish Pirates – The London of the Period – The Father of the British Navy – Alfred and his Victories – Canute’s Fleet – The Norman Invasion – The Crusades – Richard Cœur de Lion’s Fleet – The Cinque Ports and their Privileges – Foundation of a Maritime Code – Letters of Marque – Opening of the Coal Trade – Chaucer’s Description of the Sailors of his Time – A Glorious Period – The Victories at Harfleur – Henry V’s Fleet of 1,500 Vessels – The Channel Marauders – The King-Maker Pirate – Sir Andrew Wood’s Victory – Action with Scotch Pirates – The Great Michael and the Great Harry – Queen Elizabeth’s Astuteness – The Nation never so well provided – “The Most Fortunate and Invincible Armada” – Its Size and Strength – Elizabeth’s Appeal to the Country – A Noble Response – Effingham’s Appointment – The Armada’s First Disaster – Refitted, and resails from Corunna – Chased in the Rear – A Series of Contretemps – English Volunteer Ships in Numbers – The Fire-shops at Calais – The Final Action – Flight of the Armada – Fate of Shipwrecked Spanish in Ireland – Total Loss to Spain – Rejoicings and Thanksgivings in England 258
Chapter XVI The History of Ships and Shipping Interests (continued)
Noble Adventurers – The Earl of Cumberland as a Pirate – Rich Prizes – Action with the Madre de Dios – Capture of the Great Carrack – A Cargo worth £150,000 – Burning of the Cinco Chagas – But Fifteen saved out of Eleven Hundred Souls – The Scourge of Malice – Establishment of the Slave Trade – Sir John Hawkins’ Ventures – High-handed Proceedings – The Spaniards forced to purchase – A Fleet of Slavers – Hawkins sanctioned by “Good Queen Bess” – Joins in a Negro War – A Disastrous Voyage – Sir Francis Drake – His First Loss – The Treasure at Nombre de Dios – Drake’s First Sight of the Pacific – Tons of Silver captured – John Oxenham’s Voyage – The First Englishman on the Pacific – His Disasters and Death – Drake’s Voyage Round the World – Blood-letting at the Equator – Arrival at Port Julian – Trouble with the Natives – Execution of a Mutineer – Passage of the Straits of Magellan – Vessels separated in a Gale – Loss of the Marigold – Tragic Fate of Eight Men – Drake driven to Cape Horn – Proceedings at Valparaiso – Prizes taken – Capture of the Great Treasure Ship – Drake’s Resolve to change his Course Home – Vessel refitted at Nicaragua – Stay in the Bay of San Francisco – The Natives worship the English – Grand Reception at Ternate – Drake’s Ship nearly wrecked – Return to England – Honours accorded Drake – His Character and Influence – Sir Humphrey Gilbert’s Disasters and Death – Raleigh’s Virginia Settlements 291
Volume II
Chapter I The History of Ships and Shipping Interests (continued)
Extent of the Subject – The First American Colony – Hostilities with the Indians – 117 Settlers Missing – Raleigh’s Search for El Dorado – Little or no Gold discovered – 2,000 Spaniards engage in another Search – Disastrous Results – Dutch Rivalry with the English – Establishment of two American Trading Companies – Of the East India Company – Their first Great Ship – Enormous Profits of the Venture – A Digression – Officers of the Company in Modern Times – Their Grand Perquisites – Another Naval Hero – Monson a Captain at Eighteen – His appreciation of Stratagem – An Eleven Hour’s hand-to-hand Contest – Out of Water at Sea – Monson two years a Galley Slave – Treachery of the Earl of Cumberland – The Cadiz Expedition – Cutting out a Treasure Ship – Prize worth £200,000 – James I and his Great Ship – Monson as Guardian of the Narrow Seas – After the British Pirates – One of their Haunts – A Novel Scheme – Monson as a Pirate himself – Meeting of the sham and real Pirates – Capture of a Number – Frightened into Penitence – Another caught by a ruse 1
Chapter II The History of Ships and Shipping Interests (continued)
Charles I and Ship Money – Improvements made by him in the Navy – His great Ship, the Royal Sovereign – The Navigation Laws of Cromwell – Consequent War with the Dutch – Capture of Grand Spanish Prize – Charles II Seizes 130 Dutch Ships – Van Tromp and the Action at Harwich – De Ruyter in the Medway and Thames – Peace – War with France – La Hogue – Peter the Great and his Naval Studies – Visit to Sardant – Difficulty of remaining incognito – Cooks of his own Food – His Assiduity and Earnestness – A kind-hearted Barbarian – Gives a Grand Banquet and Fête – Conveyed to England – His stay at Evelyn’s Place – Studies at Deptford – Visits Palaces and Public-houses – His Intemperance – Presents the King with £10,000 Ruby – Engages numbers of English Mechanics – Return to Russia – Rapid increase in his Navy – Determines to Build St. Petersburg – Arrivals of the First Merchantmen – Splendid Treatment of their Captains – Law’s Mississippi Scheme and the South Sea Bubble – Two Nations gone Made – The “Bubble” to pay the National Debt – Its one Solitary Ship – Noble and Plebeian Stockbrokers – Rise and Fall of the Bubble – Directors made to Disgorge 28
Chapter III The History of Ships and Shipping Interests (continued)
A Grand Epoch of Discovery – Anson’s Voyage – Difficulties of manning the Fleet – Five Hundred Invalided Pensioners drafted – The Spanish Squadron under Pizarro – Its Disastrous Voyage – One Vessel run ashore – Rats at Four Dollars each – A Man-of-War held by eleven Indians – Anson at the Horn – Fearful Outbreak of Scurvy – Ashore at Robinson Crusoe’s Island – Death of two-thirds of the Crews – Beauty of Juan Fernandez – Loss of the Wager – Drunken and Insubordinate Crew – Attempt to blow up the Captain – A Midshipman shot – Desertion of the Ship’s Company – Prizes taken by Anson – His Humanity to Prisoners – The Gloucester abandoned at Sea – Delightful Stay at Tinian – The Centurion blown out to Sea – Despair of those on Shore – Its safe Return – Capture of the Manilla Galleon – A hot Fight – Prize worth a Million and a half Dollars – Return to England 45
Chapter IV The History of Ships and Shipping Interests (continued)
Progress of the American Colonies – Great Prevalence of Piracy – Numerous Captures and Executions – A Proclamation of Pardon – John Theach, or “Black Bear” – A Desperate Pirate – Hand-and-glove with the Governor of North Carolina – Pretends to accept the King’s Pardon – A Blind – His Defeat and Death – Unwise Legislation and consequent Irritation – The Stamp Act – The Tea Tax – Enormous Excitement – Tea-chests thrown into Boston Harbour – Determined Attitude of the American Colonists – The Boston Port Bill – Its Effects – Sympathy of all America – The final Rupture – England’s Wars to the end of the Century – Nelson and the Nile – Battle of Copenhagen 62
Chapter V The History of Ships and Shipping Interests (continued)
Early Paddle-boats – Worked by Animal Power – Blaseo de Garay’s Experiment – Solomon de Caus – David Ramsey’s Engines – The Marquis of Worcester – A Horse-boat – Boats worked by Water – By Springs – By Gunpoweder – Patrick Miller’s Triple Vessel – Double Vessels worked by Capstans – The First Practical Steam-boat – Symington’s Engines – The Second Steamer – The Charlotte Dundas – American Enterprise – James Rumsay’s Oar-boats worked by Steam – Poor Fitch – Before his Age – Robert Fulton – His Torpedo Experiments – Wonderful Submarine Boat – Experiments at Brest and Deal – His first Steam-boat – Breaks in Pieces – Trip of the Clermont, the first American Steamer – Opposition to his Vessels – A Pendulum Boat – The first Steamer War-ship – Henry Bell’s Comet 77
Chapter VI The History of Ships and Shipping Interests (continued)
The Clyde and its Ship-building Interests – From Henry Bell to Modern Ship-builders – The First Royal Naval Steamer – The First regular Sea-going Steamer – The Revolution in Ship-building – The Iron Age – “Will Iron Float?” – The Invention of the Screw-propeller – Ericsson, Smith and Woodcraft – American ’Cuteness – Captain Stockton and his Boat – The First Steamer to Cross the Atlantic – Voyages of the Sirius and Great Western – The International Struggle – The Collins and Cunard Lines – Fate of the Arctic – The Pacific never heard of more – Why the Cunard Company has been Successful – Splendid Discipline on board their Vessels – The Fleets that leave the Mersey 97
Chapter VII The History of Ships and Shipping Interests (continued)
A Contrast – Floating Palaces and “Coffin-ships” – Mr. Plimsoll’s Appeal – His Philanthropic Efforts – Use of Old Charts – Badly-constructed Ships – A Doomed Ship – Owner’s Gains by her Loss – A Sensible Deserter – Over-loading – The Widows and Fatherless – Other Risks of the Sailor’s Life – Scurvy – Improper Cargoes – “Unclassed Vessels” – “Lloyd’s” and its History 112
Chapter VIII The History of Ships and Shipping Interests (continued)
The Largest Ship in the World – History of the Great Eastern – Why she was Built – Brunel and Scott Russell – Story of the Launch – Powerful Machinery Employed – Christened by Miss Hope – Failure to move her more than a few feet – A Sad Accident – Launching by Inches – Afloat at last – Dimensions – Accommodations – The Grand Saloon – The Paddle-wheel and Screw Engines – First Sea Trip – Speed – In her first Gale – Serious Explosions on Board off Hastings – Proves a fine Sea-boat – Drowning of her Captain and others – First Transatlantic Voyage – Defects in Boilers and Machinery – Behaves splendidly in mid-ocean – Grand Reception in New York – Subsequent Trips – Used as a Troop-ship to Canada – Carried out 2,600 Soldiers – An eventful Passenger Trip – Caught in a Cyclone Hurricane – Her Paddles almost wrenched away – Rudder Disabled – Boats carried away – Shifting of Heavy Cargo – The Leviathan a Gigantic Waif on the Ocean – Return to Cork 129
Chapter IX The History of Ships and Shipping Interests (continued)
The Ironclad Question – One of the Topics of the Day – What is to be their Value in Warfare? Story of the Dummy Ironclad – Two real Ironclads vanquished by it – Experience on board an American Monitor – Visit of the Miantonoma to St. John’s – Her Tour round the World – Her Turrets and interior Arrangements – Firing off the Big Guns – Inside the Turret – “Prepare!” – Effects of the Firing – A Boatswain’s-mate’s Opinion – The Monitor goes round the World safely – Few of the Original American Ironclads left – English Ironclads – The Warrior – Various Types – Iron-built – Wood-built – Wood-covered – The Greatest Result yet attained, the Inflexible – Circular Ironclads – The “Garde Côtes” – Cost of Ironclads – The Torpedo Question – The Marquis of Worcester’s Inventions – Bishop Wilkin’s Subaqueous Ark – Fulton’s Experiments – A Frightened Audience – A Hulk Blown Up – Government Aid to Fulton – The Argus and her “Crinoline” – Torpedoes successfully foiled – Their use during the American War – Brave Lieut. Cushing – The Albemarle Destroyed – Modern Torpedoes: the “Lay;” the “Whitehead” – Probable Manner of using in an Engagement – The Ram and its Power 138
Chapter X The Lighthouse and Its History
The Lighthouse – Our most noted one in Danger – The Eddystone Undermined – The Ancient History of Lighthouses – The Pharos of Alexandria – Roman Light Towers at Boulogne and Dover – Fire-beacons and Pitch-pots – The Tower of Cordouan – The First Eddystone Lighthouse – Winstanley and his Eccentricities – Difficulties of Building his Wooden Structure – Resembles a Pagoda – The Structure Swept away with its Inventor – Another Silk Mercer in the Field – Rudyerd’s Lighthouse – Built of Wood – Stood for Fifty Years – Creditable Action of Louis XIV – Lighthouse Keeper alone with a Corpse – The Horros of a Month – Rudyerd’s Tower destroyed by Fire – Smeaton’s Early History – Employed to Build the present Eddystone – Resolves on a Stone Tower – Employment of “Dove-tailing” in Masonry – Difficulties of Landing on the Rock – Peril incurred by the Workmen – The First Season’s Work – Smeaton always in the Post of Danger – Watching the Rock from Plymouth Hoe – The Last Season – Vibrations of the Tower in a Storm – Has stood for 120 years – Joy of the Mariner when “The Eddystone’s in Sight!” – Lights in the English Channel 156
Chapter XI The Lighthouse (continued)
The Bell Rock – The good Abbot of Arberbrothok – Ralph the Rover – Rennie’s grand Lighthouse – Perils of the Work – Thirty-two Men apparently doomed to Destruction – A New Form of outward Construction – Its successful Completion – The Skerryvore Lighthouse and Alan Stevenson – Novel Barracks on the Rock – Swept Away in a Storm – The unshapely Seal and unfortunate Cod – Half-starved Workmen – Out of Tobacco – Difficulties of Landing the Stones – Visit of M. de Quatrefages to Héhaux – Description of the Lighthouse-Exterior – How it rocks – Practice versus Theory – The Interior – A Parisian Apartment at Sea 172
Chapter XII The Lighthouse (concluded)
Lighthouses on Sand – Literally screwed down – The Light on Maplin Sands – That of Port Fleetwood – Iron Lighthouses – The Lanterns themselves – Eddystone long illuminated with Tallow Candles – Coal Fires – Revolution caused by the invention of the Argand Burner – Improvements in Reflectors – The Electric Light at Sea – Flashing and Revolving Lights – Coloured Lights – Their Advantages and Disadvantages – Lanterns obscured by Moths, Bees, and Birds 182
Chapter XIII The Breakwater
Breakwaters, Ancient and Modern – Origin and History of that at Cherbourg – Stones Sunk in Wooden Cones – Partial Failure of the Plan – Millions of Tons dropped to the Bottom – The Breakwater temporarily abandoned – Completed by Napoleon III – A Port Bristling with Guns – Rennie’s Plymouth Breakwater – Ingenious Mode of Depositing the Stones – Lessons of the Sea – The Waves the best Workmen – Completion of the Work – Grand Double Breakwater at Portland – The English Cherbourg – A Magnificent Piece of Engineering – Utilisation of Otherwise worthless Stone – 900 Convicts at Work – The Great Fortifications – The Verne – Gibraltar at Home – A Gigantic Fosse – Portland almost Impregnable – Breakwaters Elsewhere 188
Chapter XIV The Greatest Storm in English History
The Dangers of the Sea – England’s Interest in the Matter – The Shipping and Docks of London and Liverpool – The Goodwin Sands and their History – The “Hovellers” – The Great Gale of 1703 – Defoe’s Graphic Account – Thirteen Vessels of the Royal Navy Lost – Accounts of Eye-witnesses – The Storm Universal over England – Great Damage and Loss of Life at Bristol – Plymouth – Portsmouth – Vessels Driven to Holland – At the Spurn Light – Inhumanity of Deal Townsmen – A worthy Mayor saves 200 Lives – The Damage in the Thames – Vessels Drifting in all Directions – 800 Boats Lost – Loss of Life on the River – On Shore – Remarkable Escapes and Casualties – London in a Condition of Wreck – Great Damage to Churches – A Bishop and his Lady Killed – A Remarkable Water-Spout – Total Losses Fearful 197
Chapter XV “Man the Life-Boat!”
The Englishman’s direct interest in the Sea – The History of the Life-boat and its Work – Its Origin – A Coach-builder the First Inventor – Lionel Lukin’s Boat – Royal Encouragement – Wreck of the Adventure – The Poor Crew Drowned in sight of Thousands – Good out of Evil – The South Shields Committee and their Prize Boat – Would-have and Greathead – The latter rewarded by Government, &c. – Slow Progress of the Life-boat Movement – The Old Boat at Redcar – Organisation of the National Life-boat Institution – Sir William Hillary’s Brave Deeds – Terrible Losses at the Isle of Man – Loss of Three Life-boats – Reorganisation of the Society – Immense Competition for a Prize – Beeching’s “Self-righting” Boats – Buoyancy and Ballast – Dangers of the Service – A Year’s Wrecks 209
Chapter XVI “Man the Life-Boat!” (continued)
A “Dirty” Night on the Sands – Wreck of the Samaritano – The Vessel boarded by Margate and Whitstable Men – A Gale in its Fury – The Vessel breaking up – Nineteen Men in the Fore-rigging – Two Margate Life-boats Wrecked – Fate of the Lugger – The Scene at Ramsgate – “Man the Life-boat!” – The god Steamer Aid – the Life-boat Towed out – A terrible Trip – A grand Struggle with the Elements – The Flag of Distress made out – How to reach it – The Life-boat cast off – On through the Breakers – The Wreck reached at last – Difficulties of rescuing the Men – The poor little Cabin-boy – The Life-boat crowded – A moment of great Peril – The Steamer reached at last – Back to Ramsgate – The Reward of Merit – Loss of a Passenger Steamer – The Three Lost Corpses – The Emigrant Ship on the Sands – A Splendid Night’s Work 215
Chapter XVII “Man the Life-Boat!” (continued)
A Portuguese Brig on the Sands – Futile Attempts to get her off – Sudden Break-up – Great Danger to the Life-boat – Great Probability of being Crushed – An Old Boatman’s Feelings – The Life-boat herself on the Goodwin – Safe at Last – Gratitude of the Portuguese Crew – A Blaze of Light seen from Deal – Fatal Delay – Twenty-eight Lives Lost – A dark December Night – The almost-deserted Wreck of the Providentia – A Plucky Captain – An awful Episode – The Mate beaten to Death – Hardly saved – The poor little Cabin-boy’s Rescue – Another Wreck on the Sands – Many Attempts to rescue the Crew – Determination of the Boatmen – Victory or Death! – The Aid Steamer nearly wrecked – A novel and successful Experiment – Anchoring on Board – The Crew Saved 225
Chapter XVIII “Wrecking” as a Profession
Probable Fate of a rich Vessel in the Middle Ages – Maritime Laws of the Period – The King’s Privileges – Cœur de Lion and his Enactments – The Rôles d’Oleron – False Pilots and Wicked Lords – Stringent Laws of George II – The Homeward-bound Vessel – Plotting Wreckers – Lured Ashore – “Dead Men Tell no Tales” – A Series of Facts – Brutality to a Captain and his Wife – Fate of a Plunderer – Defence of a Ship against Hundreds of Wreckers – Another Example – Ship Boarded by Peasantry – Police Attacked by Thousands – Cavalry Charge the Wreckers – Hundreds of Drunken Plunderers – A Curious Tract of the Last Century – A Professional Wrecker’s Arguments – A Candid Bahama Pilot 235
Chapter XIX “Hovelling” v. Wrecking
The Contrast – The “Hovellers” defended – Their Services – The Case of the Albion – Anchors and Cables wanted by a disabled Vessel – Lugger wrecked on the Beach – Dangers of the Hoveller’s Life – Nearly swamped by the heavy Seas – Loss of a baling Bowl, and what it means – Saved on an American Ship – The Lost Found – A brilliant example of Life-saving at Bideford – The Small Rewards of the Hoveller’s Life – The case of La Marguerite – Nearly wrecked in Port – Hovellers v. Wreckers – “Let’s all start fair!” – Praying for Wrecks 245
Chapter XX Ships that “Pass by on the other Side”
Captains and Owners – Reasons for apparent Inhumanity – A Case in Point – The Wreck of the Northfleet – Run down by the Murillo – A Noble Captain - The Vessel Lost, with a Hundred Ships near her – One within Three Hundred Yards – Official Inquiry – Loss of the Schiller – Two Hundred Drowned in one heavy Sea – Life-saving Apparatus of little use – Lessons of the Disaster – Wreck of the Deutschland – Harwich blamed unjustly – The good Tug-boat Liverpool and her Work – Necessity of proper Communication with Light-houses and Light-ships – The New Signal Code and old Semaphores 261
Chapter XXI A Contrast – The Ship on Fire! – Swamped at Sea
The Loss of the Amazon – A Noble Vessel – Description of her Engine-rooms – Her Boats – Heating of the Machinery – The Ship on Fire – Communication cut off – The Ominous Fire-bell – The Vessel put before the Wind – A Headlong Course – Impossibility of Launching the Boats – “Every Man for Himself!” – The Boats on Fire – Horrible Cases of Roasting – Boats Stove in and Upset – The Remnant of Survivors – “Passing by on the Other Side” – Loss of a distinguished Author – A Clergyman’s Experiences – A Graphic Description – Without Food, Water, Oars, Helm, or Compass – Blowing-up of the Amazon – “A Sail!” – Saved on the Dutch Galliot – Back from the Dead – Review of the Catastrophe – A Contrast – Loss of the London – Anxiety to get Berths on her – The First Disaster – Terrible Weather – Swamped by the Seas – The Furnaces Drowned out – Efforts to replace the Hatchway – Fourteen Feet of Water in the Hold – “Boys, you may say your Prayers!” – Scene in the Saloon – The Last Prayer Meeting – Worthy Draper – Incidents – Loss of an Eminent Tragedian – His Last Efforts – The Bottle Washed Ashore – Nineteen Saved out of Two Hundred and Sixty-three Souls on Board – Noble Captain Martin – The London’s Last Plunge – The Survivors picked up by an Italian Barque 278
Chapter XXII Early Steamer Wrecks and Their Lesson
The Rothsay Castle – An Old Vessel, unfit for Sea Service – A Gay Starting – Drifting to the Fatal Sands – The Steamer Strikes – A Scene of Panic – Lost within easy reach of Assistance – An Imprudent Pilot – Statements of Survivors – A Father and Son parted and re-united – Heartrending Episodes – The Other Side: Saved by an Umbrella – Loss of the Killarney – Severe Weather – The Engine-fires Swamped – At the Mercy of the Waves – On the Rocks – The Crisis – Half the Passengers and Crew on an Isolated Rock – Spolasco and his Child – Holding on for Dear Life – Hundreds Ashore “Wrecking” – No Attempts to Save the Survivors – Several Washed Off – Deaths from Exhaustion – “To the Rescue!” – Noble Efforts – Failure of Several Plans – A Novel Expedient adopted – Its Perils – Another Dreary Night – Good Samaritans – A Noble Lady – Saved at Last – The Inventor’s Description of the Rope Bridge – The Wreck Register for One Year – Grand Work of the Lifeboat Institution 297
Volume III
Chapter I The Pirates and Bucaniers
Who was the First Pirate? – The Society of Bucaniers – Home of the Freebooters – Rise of the Band – Impecunious Spanish Governors and their Roguery – Great Capture of Spanish Treasure – An Unjust Seizure, but no Redress – Esquemeling’s Narrative – Voyage from Havre – “Baptism” of the French Mariners – Other Ceremonies – At Tortuga – Occupied and Reoccupied by French and Spanish – The French West India Company – Esquemeling twice Sold as a Slave – He Joins the Society of Pirates – Wild Boars and Savage Mastiffs – How the Wild Dogs came to the Islands – Cruelty of the Planters – A Terrible Case of Retribution – The Murderer of a Hundred Slaves – The First Tortugan Pirate – Pierre le Grand – A Desperate Attack – Rich Prize Taken – Rapid Spread of Piracy – How the Rovers Armed their Ships – Regulations of their Voyages – “No Prey, no Pay” – The richly-laden Vessels of New Spain – The Pearl Fisheries – An Enterprising Pirate – Success and Failure – His Final Surrender 1
Chapter II The Pirates and Bucaniers (continued)
The Pirate Portuguez – Another Successful Boat Attack – Re-taken – A Gibbet or Life – Escape – Saved by Two Winejars – Helped by the Pirates – Rich again – And suddenly Poor – A Dutch Pirate – From Sailor to Captain – A Grand Capture – And a brutal Commander – No Surrender to the Spaniards – Victory and Horse-flesh – The Rover’s Prodigality – A Stratagem – Worse than Ever – The Spaniards reduce their Commerce – Lewis Scot – John Davis – Outrages at Nicaragua – Piratical Gains – Lolonois the Bad and Brave – His First Wounds – And his Early Successes – Six Hundred and Sixty Pirates – The Capture of Maracaibo and Gibraltar – Division of the Gains – His Brutalities and Deserved Death 13
Chapter III The Pirates and Bucaniers (continued)
The Second Lolonois – Captain Henry Morgan – His first Successes – A Pirate Fleet of Seven Hundred Men – Attack on a Cuban Town – Morgan’s Form – Not to be Beaten – Puerto Bello – Morgan’s Strategy – The Castle taken – Extravagant Demands – The Governor of Panama Derided – Return to Jamaica – Their Dissipation – A Fresh Start – Maracaibo re-taken – A Chance for Guy Fawkes – Gibraltar again – Cruel Tortures inflicted on Prisoners – Horrible Brutalities – Arrival of a Spanish Fleet – Morgan’s Insolence – Letter from the Spanish Admiral – “To the Death!”
Chapter IV The Pirates and Bucaniers (continued)
Attack resolved – The Fire-ship – Morgan passes the Castle – Off for St. Catherine’s – Given up by a Stratagem – St. Catherine’s an Easy Prey – Power of Fire – Thirty in Three Hundred Saved – The March on Panama – A Pirate Band of Twelve Hundred – Sufferings on the Way – A Pipe for Supper – Leather and Cold Water – Panama at Last – The First Encounter – Resolute Fighting – Wild Bulls in Warfare – Victory for the Pirates – Ruthless Destruction of Property – Cruelty to Prisoners – Searching for Treasure – Dissatisfaction at the Dividend – The Last of Morgan 40
Chapter V The Pirates and Bucaniers (continued)
The Exploits of Captain Sawkins – Three Ships Attacked by Canoes – Valiant Peralta – Explosion on Board – Miserable Sight on Two Ships’ Decks – Capture of an Empty Ship – Dissatisfaction among the Pirates – Desertion of Many – Message from the Governor of Panama – The Pirate Captain’s Bravado – His Death – Fear inspired on all the Southern Coasts – Preparations for Punishing and Hindering the Bucaniers – Captain Kidd – His First Commissions as Privateer – Turns Pirate – The Mocha Fleet – Almost a Mutiny of Board – Kills the Gunner – Capture of Rich Prizes – A Rich Ransom Derided – Grand Dividend – Kidd Deserted by some of his Men – Proclamation of Pardon – Kidd Excepted – Rushes on his Doom – Arrested in New York – Trial at the Old Bailey – Pleadings – Execution with Six Companions 51
Chapter VI The Pirates of the Eighteenth Century
Difference between the Pirates of the Seventeenth and Eighteenth Century – Avery’s brief Career – A Captain all at Sea – Capture of his Ship – Madagascar a Rendezvous for Pirates – A Rich Prize – The Great Mogul’s Ship Taken – Immense Spoils – The Great Mogul’s Rage – Avery’s Treachery – His Companions abandon their Evil Ways – The Water-rat beaten by Land-rats – Avery dies in abject Poverty – A Pirate Settlement on Madagascar – Roberts the Daring – Sails among a Portuguese Fleet, and selects the best Vessel for his Prey – His Brutal Destruction of Property – His End – Mission and Caraccioli – Communistic Pirates – Their Captures – High Morality and Robbery Combined – Their Fates 59
Chapter VII The Pirates of the Eighteenth Century (concluded)
Mary Read, the Female Pirate – As Male Servant, Soldier, and Sailor – Her Bravery and Modesty – The Pirate Vane – No Honour among Thieves – Delivered to Justice – The brief Career of Captain Worley – The Biter Bit – A more than usually brutal Pirate – Captain Low’s Life of Villainy – His Wonderful Successes – An unfortunate Black Burned to Death – Torture of a Portugese Captain – Of Two Portugese Friars – The Results of Sympathy – Low’s Cupidity defeated by a Portugese – Eleven Thousand Moidores dropped out of a Cabin Window – An Unpunished Fiend 67
Chapter VIII Paul Jones and de Soto
Paul Jones, the Privateer – A Story of his Boyhood – He Joins the American Revolutionists – Attempt to Burn the Town and Shipping of Whitehaven – Foiled – His Appearance at St. Mary’s – Capture of Lady Selkirk’s Family Plate – A Letter from Jones – Return of the Plate several Years after – A Press-gang Impressed – Engagement with the Ranger – A Privateer Squadron – The Fight off Scarborough – Brave Captains Pearson and Piercy – Victory for the Privateers – Jones Dies in abject Poverty – A Nineteenth Century Freebooter – Benito de Soto – Mutiny on a Slave Ship – The Commander left Ashore and the Mate Murdered – Encounters the Morning Star – A Ship without a Gun – Terror of the Passengers – Order to spare no Lives – A Terrified Steward – De Soto’s Commands only partially observed, and the Ship Saved – At Cadiz – Failure of the Pirate’s Plans – Captured, Tried, and Hanged at Gibraltar 71
Chapter IX Our Arctic Expeditions
Our Latest Arctic Expedition – Scene at Portsmouth – Departure of the Alert and Discovery – Few Expeditions really every pointed to the Pole – What we know of the Regions – Admitted and Unadmitted Records – Dutch Yarns – A Claimant at the Pole – Life with the Esquimaux – A Solitary Journey – Northmen Colony – The Adventurer kindly treated – Their King – Sun-worshippers – Believes in an Arctic Hell – The Mastodon not Extinct – Domesticated Walruses – The whole story a nonsensical Canard 84
Chapter X Cruise of the Pandora
The Arctic Expedition of 1875-6 – Its Advocates – The Alert and Discovery – Cruise of the Pandora – Curious Icebergs – The First Bump with the Ice – Seal meat as a Luxury – Ashore on the Floe – Coaling at Ivigtut – The Kryolite Trade – Beauty of the Greenland Coast in Summer – Festivities at Disco – The Belles of Greenland – A Novel Ballroom – The dreaded Melville Bay – Scene at Ruin at Northumberland House – Devastation of the Bears – An Arctic Graveyard – Beset by the ice – An Interesting Discovery – Furthest Point Attained – Return Voyage – A Dreadful Night – The Phantom Cliff – Home again 91
Chapter XI The Alert and Discovery
Nares’ Expedition – Wonderful Passage through Baffin’s Bay – Winter Quarters of the Discovery – Capital Game-bag – Continued Voyage of the Alert – Highest Latitude ever attained by a Ship – “The Sea of Ancient Ice” – Winter Quarters, Employments, and Amusements – The Royal Arctic Theatre – Guy Fawkes’ Day on the Ice – Christmas Festivities – Unparalleled Cold – Spring Sledging – Attempt to Reach the Discovery – Illness and Death of Petersen – The Ravages of Scurvy – Tribute to Captain Hall’s Memory – Markham and Parr’s Northern Journey – Highest Latitude ever reached – Sufferings of the Men – Brave Deeds – The Voyage Home 29
Chapter XII The First Arctic Voyages
Early History of Arctic Discovery – The Hardy Norseman – Accidental Discovery of Iceland – Colony Formed – A Fisherman Drifted to Greenland – Eric the Read Head – Rapid Colonisation – Early Intercourse with America – Voyages of the Zeni – Cabot’s Attempt at a North-West Passage – Maritime Enterprise of the Epoch – Voyage of the Dominus Vobiscum – Of the Trinitie and Minion – Starvation and Cannibalism – A High-handed Proceeding – Company of the Merchant Adventurers – Attempts at the North-East – Fate of Willoughby – Chancelor, and our First Intercourse with Russia 115
Chapter XIII Early Arctic Expeditions
Attempts at the North-West Passage – Sir Humphrey Gilbert’s Advocacy – The One thing left undone – Frobisher’s Expeditions – Arctic “Diggins” – A Veritable Gold Excitement – Large Fleet Despatched – Disaster and Disappointment – Voyages of John Davis – Intercourse with the Natives – His Reports concerning Whales, &c. – The Merchants Aroused – Opening of the Whaling Trade – Maldonado’s Claim to the Discovery of the North-West Passage 123
Chapter XIV The Voyages of Barents
North-Eastern Voyages of the Dutch – Barents reaches Nova Zembla – Adventures with the Polar Bears – Large Trading Expedition organised – Failure of the Venture – Reward Offered for the Discovery of a North-East Passage – Third Voyage – Dangers of the Ice – Forced to Winter on Nova Zembla – Erection of a House – Intense Cold – Philosophical Dutchmen – Attacks from Bears – Returning Spring – The Vessel Abandoned – Preparations for a Start – The Company Enfeebled and Down-hearted – Voyage of 1,700 miles in Two Small Boats – Death of Barents and Adrianson – Perils of Arctic Navigation – Enclosed in the Ice – Death of a Sailor – Meeting with Russians – Arrival in Lapland – Home once more – Discovery of the Barents Relics by Carlsen – Voyages of Adams, Weymouth, Hall, and Knight 129
Chapter XV Voyages of Hudson and His Successors
Henry Hudson’s Voyages – Projected Passage over the Pole – Second Expedition – A Mermaid Sighted – Third Voyage in the Dutch Service – Discovery of the Hudson River – Last Voyage – Discovery of Hudson’s Bay – Story of an Arctic Tragedy – Abacuk Pricket’s Narrative – Their Winter Stay – Rise of a Mutiny – Hudson and Nine Companions Set Adrift and Left to Die – Retribution – Four of the Mutineers Killed – Sufferings from Starvation – Death of a Ringleader – Arrival in Ireland – Suspicious Circumstances – Baffin’s Voyages – Danish Expeditions to Greenland – Jens Munk and his Unfortunate Companions – Sixty-one Persons Starved to Death – Voyage of Three Survivors across the Atlantic – An unkingly King – Death of Munk – Moxon’s Dutch Beer-house Story – Wood and Flawes – Wreck of Wood’s Vessel – Knight’s Fatal Expedition – Slow Starvation and Death of the whole Company – The Middleton and Dobbs’ Agitation - £20,000 offered for the Discovery of the North-West Passage 144
Chapter XVI Expeditions in the Eighteenth Century
Paucity of Arctic Expeditions in the Eighteenth Century – Phipps’ Voyage – Walls of Ice – Ferocious Sea-horses – A Beautiful Glacier – Cook’s Voyage – A Fresh Attempt – Extensions of the Government Rewards – Cape Prince of Wales – Among the Tehuktchis – Icy Cape – Baffled by the Ice – Russian Voyages – The Two Unconquerable Capes – Peter the Great – Behring’s Voyages – Discovery of the Straits – The Third Voyage – Scurvy and Shipwreck – Death of the Commander – New Siberia – The Ivory Islands 154
Chapter XVII The Expeditions of Ross and Parry
Remarkable Change in the Greenland Ice-Fields – Immense Icebergs found out of their Latitudes – Ross the First’s Expedition – Festivities among the Danes –Interviews with Esquimaux – Crimson Snow – A Mythical Discovery – The Croker Mountains – Buchan’s Expedition – Bursting of Icebergs – Effects of Concussion – The Creation of an Iceberg – Spitzbergen in Summer – Animated Nature – Millions of Birds – Refuge in an Ice-pack – Parry and his Exploits – His Noble Character – First Arctic Voyage – Sails over the Croker Mountains 162
Chapter XVIII Parry’s Expeditions (continued)
Five Thousand Pounds Earned by Parry’s Expedition – Winter Quarters – Theatre – An Arctic Newspaper – Effects of Intense Cold – The Observatory Burned Down – Return to England – Parry’s Second Expedition – “Young” Ice – Winter at Lyon’s Inlet – A Snow Village in Winter and Spring – Break-up of the Ice – The Vessels in a Terrible Position – Third Winter Quarters – Parry’s Fourth Winter – The Fury Abandoned – The Old Griper and her Noble Crew 170
Chapter XIX Parry’s Boat and Sledge Expedition
Parry’s Attempt at the Pole – Hecla Cove – Boat and Sledge Expedition – Mode of Travelling – Their Camps – Laborious Efforts – Broken Ice – Midnight Dinners and Afternoon Breakfasts – Labours of Sisyphus – Drifting Ice – Highest Latitude Reached – Return Trip to the Ship – Parry’s Subsequent Career – Wrangell’s Ice Journeys 178
Chapter XX The Magnetic Pole – A Land Journey to the Polar Sea
Sir John Ross and the Victory – First Steam Vessel Employed in the Arctic – Discovery of the Magnetic Pole – The British Flag Waving over it – Franklin and Richardson’s Journeys to the Polar Sea – The Coppermine River – Sea Voyage in Birch-bark Canoes – Return Journey – Terrible Sufferings – Starvation and Utter Exhaustion – Deaths by the Way – A Brave Feat – Relieved at Length – Journey to the Mouth of the Mackenzie – Fracas with the Esquimaux – Peace Restored 186
Chapter XXI Voyage of the Terror
Back’s effort to reach Repulse Bay – Nine Months in the Ice – The Terror Nipped and Crushed – A General Disruption – Extreme Peril – Increase of Pressure – Providential Delivery – Another Nip – Bow of the Ship Split – Preparations for Emergencies – The Crew – An early Break-up – Frozen Again – A Tremendous Rush of Ice – The Day of Release 196
Chapter XXII Franklin’s Last Voyage
Sir John Franklin and his Career – His Last Expedition – Takes the Command as his Birthright – The last seen of his Ships – Alarm at their Long Absence – The Search – A few Faint Traces Discovered by Parry – A Fleet beset in the Ice – Efforts made to Communicate with Franklin – Rockets and Balloons – M’Clure’s Expedition – Discovery of the North-West Passage – Strange Arrival of Lieutenant Pim over the Ice – The Investigator Abandoned – Crew Saved – Reward of £10,000 to M’Clure and his Ship’s Company 204
Chapter XXIII The Franklin Search
The Franklin Expedition – The First Relics – Dr. Rae’s Discoveries – The Government Tired of the Search – Noble Lady Franklin – The Voyage of the Fox – Beset in the Ice for Eight Months – Enormous Icebergs – Seal and Bear Hunts – Unearthly Noises under the Floes – Guy Fawkes in the Arctic – The Fiftieth Seal Shot – A Funeral – A Merry Christmas – New Year’s Celebration – Winter Gales – Their Miraculous Escape – Experience of a Whaler – Breakfast and Ship Lost together 215
Chapter XXIV The Last Traces
M’Clintock’s Summer Explorations – The Second Winter – Sledging Parties – Snow Huts – Near the Magnetic Pole – Meeting with Esquimaux – Franklin Relics Obtained – Objection of Esquimaux to Speak of the Dead – Hobson’s Discovery of the Franklin Records – Fate of the Erebus and Terror – Large Quantity of Relics Purchased from the Natives – The Skeleton on the Beach – Fate of Crozier’s Party – “As they Fell they Died” – The Record at Point Victory – Boat with Human Remains Discovered – The Wrecks never Seen – Return of the Fox 223
Chapter XXV Kane’s Memorable Expedition
Dr. Kane’s Expedition – His short but eventful Career – Departure of the Advance – Dangers of the Voyage – Grinding Ice – Among the Bergs – A Close Shave – Nippings – The Brig towed from the Ice-beach – Smith’s Sound – Rensselacr Harbour – Winter Quarters – Return of an Exploring Party – Fearful Sufferings – To the Rescue – Saved – Curious Effects of Intense Cold 232
Chapter XXVI Kane’s Expedition (continued)
Arrival of Esquimaux at the Brig – A Treaty Concluded – Hospitality on Board – Arctic Appetites – Sledge Journeys – A Break-down – Morton’s Trip – The Open Sea – The Brig hopelessly Beset – A Council Called – Eight Men stand by the Advance – Departure of the Rest – Their Return – Terrible Sufferings – A Characteristic Entry – Raw Meat for Food – Fruitless Journeys for Fresh Meat – A Scurvied Crew – Starving Esquimaux – Attempted Desertion – A Deserter brought back from the Esquimaux Settlements 238
Chapter XXVII Kane’s Expedition (concluded)
A Sad Entry – Farewell to the Brig – Departure for the South – Death of Ohlsen – Difficult Travelling – The Open Water – The Esquimaux of Etah – A Terrible Gale – Among the broken Floes – A Greenland Oasis – The Ice Cliff – Eggs by the Hundred – An Anxious Moment – A Savage Feast – The First Sign of Civilisation – Return to the Settlements – Home once more 247
Chapter XVVIII Hayes’ Expedition – Swedish Expeditions
Voyage of the United States – High Latitude attained – In Winter Quarters – Hardships of the Voyage – The dreary Arctic Landscape – Open Water once more – 1,300 Miles of Ice traversed – Swedish Expeditions – Perilous Position of the Sofia 255
Chapter XXIX The Second German Expedition
The First German Expedition – Preparations for a Second – Building of the Germania – The Hansa – The Emperor William’s Interest in the Voyage – The Scientific Corpse – Departure from Bremerhaven – Neptune at the Arctic Circle – The Vessels Separated among the Ice – Sport with Polar Bears – Wedged in by the Grinding Ice – Preparations to Winter on the Floe – The Hansa lifted Seventeen Feet out of the Water – A Doomed Vessel – Wreck of the Hansa 258
Chapter XXX On an Ice-Raft
A Floating Ice-Raft – The Settlement – Christmas in a New Position – Terrible Storms – Commotion under the Ice – The Floe breaks up – House Ruined – Water on the Floe – A Spectre Iceberg – Fresh Dangers and Deliverances – Drifted 1,100 Miles – Resolution to Leave the Ice – Open Water – Ice again – Tedious Progress – Reach Illuidlek Island – Welcome at the Greenland Settlements – Home in Germany – Voyage of the Germania – Discovery of Coal – A New Inlet – Home to Bremen 263
Chapter XXXI Hall’s Expedition – The Austro-Hungarian Expedition – Nordenskjöld
Captain Hall’s Expedition – High Latitude Attained – Open Water Seen – Death of Hall – The Polaris Beset – An Abandoned Party – Six Months on a Floating Ice-floe – Rescue – Loss of the Steamer – Investigation at Washington – The Austro-Hungarian Expedition – The Tegethoff hopelessly Beset in the Ice – Two Long Weary Years – Perils from the Ice Pressure – Ramparts raised round the Ship – The Polar Night – Loss of a Coal-hut – Attempts to Escape – A Grand Discovery – Franz Josef Land – Sledging Parties – Gigantic Glaciers – The Steamer Abandoned – Boat and Sledge Journey to the Bay of Downs – Prof. Nordenskjöld’s Voyage – The North-East Passage an accomplished Feast 268
Chapter XXXII The Antarctic Regions
Has the South Pole been Neglected? – The Antarctic even more Inhospitable than the Arctic –The Antarctic Summer – Search for the Terra Australis – Early Explorers – Captain Cook’s Discoveries – Watering at Icebergs – The Southern Thule – Smith’s Report – Weddell’s Voyage – Dead Whale Mistaken for an Island – D’Urville’s Adélie Land – Wilkes Land – Voyages of James Ross – High Land Discovered – Deep Beds of Guano – Antarctic Volcanoes – Mounts Erebus and Terror – Victoria Land 278
Chapter XXXIII Decisive Voyages in History – Diaz – Columbus
An Important Epoch in the History of Discovery – King John II of Portugal and his Enterprises – Diaz the Bold – Ventures out to Sea – Rounds the Cape – Ignorant of the Fact – The Cape of Storms – King John re-christens it – Columbus and the Narrative of his Son – His Visit to Portugal – Marriage – An un-royal Trick – Sends his Brother to England – His Misfortune – Columbus in Spain – A prejudiced and ignorant Report – The One Sensible Ecclesiastic – Again Repulsed – A Friend at Court – Queen Isabella Won to the Cause – Departure of the Expedition – Out in the Broad Atlantic – Murmurs of the Crews – Signs of Land – Disappointment – Latent Mutiny – Land at Last – Discovery of St. Salvador – Cuba – Natives Smoking the Weed – Utopia in Hispaniola – Columbus Wrecked – Gold Obtained – First Spanish Settlement – Homeward Voyage – Storms and Vows – Arrival in Europe – Triumphant Reception at Barcelona 281
Chapter XXXIV Decisive Voyages in History – Columbus – Vasco da Gama
Columbus and his Enemies – Unsuitable Settlers – Outrageous Conduct of the Colonists – The Second Expedition of Columbus – Discovery of Jamaica – Dangerous Illness of Columbus – Return to Spain – The Excitement over – Difficulty of Starting a New Expedition – Third Voyage – Columbus reaches the Mainland of America – Insurrection in Hispaniola – Machinations at Home – Columbus brought to Spain in Chains – Indignation in Spain – His Fourth Voyage – Ferdinand’s Ingratitude – Death of the Great Navigator – Estimate of his Character – Vasco da Gama – First Voyage – The Cape reached – First Sight of India – At Calicut – Friendship of the King of Cananore – Great Profits of the Expedition – Second Voyage – Vengeance on the Ruler of Calicut – His Brutality – Subsequent History of Da Gama 294
Chapter XXXV The Companions and Followers of Columbus
The Era of Spanish Discovery – Reasons for its Rapid Development – Ojeda’s First Voyage – Fighting the Caribs – Indians and Cannon – Pinzon’s Discovery of Brazil – A Rough Reception – Bastides the Humane – A New Calamity – Ships leaking the Sieves – Economical Generosity of King Ferdinand – Ojeda’s Second Voyage – The disputed Strong-Box – Ojeda Entrapped – Swimming in Irons – Condemned Abroad – Acquitted at Home – A Triumphant Client, but a Ruined Man – A Third Voyage – Worthy La Cosa – Rival Commanders – A Foolish Challenge 300
Chapter XXXVI The Companions and Followers of Columbus (concluded)
Nicuesa and the Duns of San Domingo – Indian Contempt for a Royal Manifesto – La Cosa’s Advice Disregarded – Ojeda’s Impetuosity – A Desperate Fight – Seventy Spaniards Killed – La Cosa’s Untimely End – Ojeda found Exhausted in the Woods – A Rival’s Noble Conduct – Avenged on the Indians – A New Settlement – Ojeda’s Charm fails – A Desperate Remedy – In Search of Provisions – Wrecked on Cuba – A Toilsome March – Kindly Natives – Ojeda’s Vow Redeemed – Dies in Abject Poverty – The Bachelor Eneiso and Balboa – Smuggled on Board in a Tub – Leon and his Search for the Fountain of Youth – Discovery of Florida – Magellan – Snubbed at Home – Warmly Seconded by the Spanish Emperor – His Resolute Character – Discovery of the Straits – His Death – The First Voyage round the World – Captain Cook’s Discoveries – His Tragical Death – Vancouver’s Island 308
Volume IV
Chapter I The Great Atlantic Ferry
The “Grand Tour” of Former Days – The only Grand Tour left – Round the World in Eighty Days – Fresh-water Sailors and Nautical Ladies – Modern Steamships and their Speed – The Orient – Rivais – Routes round the Globe – Sir John Mandeville on the Subject – Difficulties in some Directions – The Great Atlantic Ferry – Dickens’s Experiences – Sea Sickness – Night at Sea – The Ship rights – And then Wrongs – A Ridiculous Situation – Modern First-class Accommodation – The Woes of the Steerage – Mark Tapley – Immense Emigration of Third-class Passengers – Discomfort and Misery – Efforts to Improve the Steerage – “Intermediate” – Castle Garden, New York – Voyage Safer than by the Bay of Biscay – The Chimborazo in a Hurricane 1
Chapter II Ocean to Ocean – The Connecting Link
The Great Trans-Continental Railway – New York to Chicago – Niagara in Winter – A Lady’s Impressions – A Pullman Dining Car – Omaha – “The Great Muddy” – Episodes of Railway Travel – Rough Roads – Indian attempts at catching Trains – Ride on a Snow Plough – Sherman – Female Vanity in the Rocky Mountains – Soaped Rails – The Great Plains – Summer and Winter – The Prairie on Fire – A Remarkable Bridge – Coal Discoveries – The “Buttes” – The City Gates of Mormondom – Echo and Weber Cañons – The Devil’s Gate – Salt Lake – Ride in a “Mud Waggon” – The City of the Saints – Mormon Industry – A Tragedy of Former Days – Mountain Meadow Massacre – The “Great Egg-shell” – Theatre – The Silver State – “Dead Heads” – Up in the Sierra Nevada – Alpine Scenery – The Highest Newspaper Office in the World – “Snowed-up” – Cape Horn – Down to the Fruitful Plains – Sunny California – Sacramento – Oakland and the Golden City – Recent Opinions of Travellers – San Francisco as a Port – Whither Away? 14
Chapter III The Pacific Ferry – San Francisco to Japan and China
The American Steamships – A Celestial Company – Leading Cargoes – Corpses and Coffins – Monotony of the Voyage – Emotions Caused by the Sea – Amusements on board – “Chalked” – Cricket at Sea – Balls Overboard – A Six Days’ Walking Match – Theatricals – Waxworks – The Officers on Board – Engineer’s Life – The Chief Waiter – “Inspection” – Meeting the America – Excitement – Her subsequent Fate – A Cyclone – At Yokohama – Fairyland – The Bazaars – Japanese Houses – A Dinner menu – Music and Dancing – Hong Kong, the Gibraltar of China – Charming Victoria – Busy Shanghai – English Enterprise 31
Chapter IV The Pacific Ferry – Another Route
The Hawaiian Islands – King and Parliament – Pleasant Honolulu – A Government Hotel – Honeysuckle-covered Theatre – Productions of the Islands – Grand Volcanoes – Ravages of Lava Streams and Earthquakes – Off to Fiji – A rapidly Christianised People – A Native Hut – Dinner – Kandavu – The Bush – Fruit-laden Canoes – Strange Ideas of Value – New Zealand – Its Features – Intense English Feeling – The New Zealand Company and its Iniquities – The Maories – Trollope’s Testimony – Facts about Cannibalism – A Chief of Bagpipes – Australia – Beauty of Sydney Harbour – Its Fortifications – Volunteers – Its War-fleet of One – Handsome Melbourne – Absence of Squalor – No Workhouses Required – The Benevolent Asylums – Splendid Place for Working Men – Cheapness of Meat, &c. – Wages in Town and Country – Life in the Bush – “Knocking Down One’s Cheque” – Gold, Coal, and Iron 45
Chapter V Woman at Sea
Poets’ Opinions on Early Navigation – Who was the First Female Navigator? – Noah’s Voyage – A Thrilling Tale – A Strained Vessel – A Furious Gale – A Birth at Sea – The Ship Doomed – Ladies and Children in an Open Boat – Drunken Sailors – Semi-starvation, Cold, and Wet – Exposed to the Tropical Sun – Death of a Poor Baby – Sharks about – A Thievish Sailor – Proposed Cannibalism – A Sail! – The Ship passes by – Despair – Saved at Last – Experiences of a Yachtswoman – Nearly Swamped and Carried Away – An Abandoned Ship – The Sunbeam of Service – Ship on Fire! – Dangers of a Coal Cargo – The Crew taken off – Noble Lady Passengers – Two Modern Heroines and their Deeds – The Story of Grace Darling – The Longstone Light and Wreck of the Forfarshire – To the Rescue! – Death of Grace Darling 56
Chapter VI Davy Jones’s Locker and its Treasures
Clarence’s Dream – Davy Jones’s Locker – Origin of the Term – Treasures of the Ocean – Pearl Fishing – Mother o’ Pearl – Formation of Pearls – Art and Nature combined – The Fisheries – The Divers and their modus operandi – Dangers of the Trade – Gambling with Oysters – Noted Pearls – Cleopatra’s Costly Draught – Scottish Pearls very Valuable – Coral – Its Place in Nature – The Fishcries – Hard Work and Poor Pay – The Apparatus Used – Coral Atolls – Darwin’s Investigations – Theories and Facts – Characteristics of the Reefs – Beauty of the Submarine Forests – Victorious Polyps – The Sponge a Marine Animal – The Fisheries – Harpooning and Diving – Value of Sponges 66
Chapter VII Davy Jones’s Locker and Those Who Dive Into It
Scientific Diving – General Principles – William Phipps and the Treasure Ship – Founder of the House of Mulgrave – Halley’s Wooden Diving-Bell and Air Barrels – Smeaton’s Improvements – Spalding’s Death – Operations at Plymouth Breakwater – The Diver’s Life – “Lower away!” – The Diving-Belle and her Letter from Below – Operations at the Bottom – Brunel and the Thames Tunnel – The Diving Dress – Suffocation – Remarkable Case of Salvage – The “Submarine Hydrostat” – John Gann of Whitstable – Dollar Row – Various Anecdotes – Combat at the Bottom of the Sea – A Mermaid Story – Run down by the Queen of Scotland 79
Chapter VIII The Ocean and Some of its Phenomena
The Saltness of the Sea – Its Composition – Tons of Silver in the Ocean – Currents and their Causes – The Great Gulf Stream – Its Characteristics – A Triumph of Science – The Tides – The Highest Known Tides and Waves – Whirlpools – The Maelström – A Norwegian Description – Edgar Allen Poe and his Story – Rescued from the Vortex – The “Souffleur” at the Mauritius – The Colour of the Sea – Its Causes – The Phosphorescence of the Ocean – Fields of Silver – Principally Caused by Animal Life 90
Chapter IX Davy Jones’s Locker – Submarine Cables
The First Channel Cable – Now-a-days 50,000 Miles of Submarine Wire – A Noble New Englander – The First Idea of the Atlantic Cable – Its Practicability admitted – Maury’s Notes on the Atlantic Bottom – Deep Sea Soundings – Ooze formed of Myriads of Shells – English Co-operation with Field – The First Cable of 1857 – Paying Out – 2,000 Fathoms Down – The Cable Parted – Bitter Disappointment – The Cable Laid and Working – Another Failure – The Employment of the Great Eastern – Stowing Away the Great Wire Rope – Departure – Another Accident – A Traitor on Board – Cable Fished up from the Bottom – Failure – Inauguration of the 1866 Expedition – Prayer for Success – A Lucky Friday – Splicing to the Shore Cable – The Start – Each Day’s Run – Approaching Trinity Bay – Success at Last – The Old and the New World bound together 98
Chapters X The Ocean and its Living Wonders
Perfection in Nature’s smallest Works – A Word on Scientific Classification – Protozoa – Blind Life – Rhizopoda – Foraminifera – A Robbery Traced by Science – Microscopic Workers – Paris Chalk – Infusoria – The “Sixth Sense of Man” – Fathers of Nations – Milne-Edwards – Submarine Explorations – The Salt-water Aquarium – The Compensating Balance required – Brighton and Sydenham – Practical Uses of the Aquarium – Medusæ: their Beauty – A Poet’s Description – Their General Characteristics – Battalions of “Jelly-fish” – Polyps – A Floating Colony – A Marvellous Organism – The Graceful Agalma – Swimming Apparatus – Natural Fishing Lines – The “Portuguese Man-of-War” – Stinging Powers of the Physalia – An Enemy to the Cuttle-fish 111
Chapter XI The Ocean and Its Living Wonders (continued)
The Madrepores – Brain, Mushroom, and Plantain Coral – The Beautiful Sea-anemones; their Organisation and Habits; their Insatiable Voracity – The Gorgons – Echinodermata – The Star-fish – Sea Urchins – Wonderful Shell and Spines – An Urchin’s Prayer – The Sea Cucumber – The Trepang, or Holothuria – Trepang Fishing – Dumont d’Urville’s Description – The Commerce in this Edible – The Molluscs – The Teredo, or Ship-worm – Their Ravages on the Holland Coast – The Retiring Razor-fish – The Edible Mussel – History of their Cultivation in France – The Bouchouts – Occasional Danger of Eating Mussels – The Prince of Bivalves – The Oyster and its Organisation – Difference in Size – American Oysters – High Priced in some Cities – Quantity Consumed in London – Courteous Exchange – Roman Estimation of them – The “Breedy Creatures” brought from Britain – Vitellius and his Hundred Dozen – A Sell: Poor Tyacke – The First Man who Ate an Oyster – The Fisheries – Destructive Dredging – Lake Fusaro and the Oyster Parks – Scientific Cultivation in France – Success and Profits – The Whitstable and other Beds – System pursued 122
Chapter XII The Ocean and its Living Wonders (continued)
The Univalves – A Higher Scale of Animal – The Gasteropoda – Limpets – Used for Basins in the Straits of Magellan – Spiral and Turret Shells – The Cowries – The Mitre Shells – The Purpuras – Tyrian Purple – The Whelk – The Marine Trumpet – The Winged-feet Molluscs – The Cephalopodous Molluscs – The Nautilus – Relic of a Noble Family – The Pearly Nautilus and its Uses – The Cuttle-fish – Michelet’s Comments – Hugo’s Actual Experiences – Gilliatt and his Combat – A Grand Description – The Devil-Fish – The Cuttle-Fish of Science – A Brute with Three Hearts – Actual Examples contrasted with the Kraken – A Monster nearly Captured – Indian Ink and Sepia – The Argonauta – The Paper Nautilus 139
Chapter XIII The Ocean and its Living Wonders (continued)
The Crustaceans, a Crusty Set – Young Crabs and their Peculiarities – Shells and no Shells – Powers of Renewal – The Biter Bit – Cocoa-nut-eating Crabs – Do Crabs like Boiling? – The Land Crab and his Migration – Nigger Excitement – The King Crab – The Hut Crab – A True Yarn – The Hermit or Soldier Crab – Pugnaciousness – Crab War and Human War – Prolific Crustaceans – Raising Lobster-pots – Technical Differences – How do Lobsters shed their Shells? – Fishermen’s Ideas – Habits of the Lobster – Its Fecundity – The Supply for Billingsgate – The Season – “Lobster Frolics” in British North America – Eel-grass – Cray-fish, Prawns, and Shrimps 150
Chapter XIV Ocean Life – The Harvest of the Sea
Fishes and their Swimming Apparatus – The Bladder – Scientific Classification – Cartilaginous Fish – The Torpedo – A Living Galvanic Battery – The Shark – His Love for man in a Gastronomic Sense – Stories of their Prowess – Catching a Shark – Their Interference with Whaling – The Tiger-Shark – African Worship of the Monster – The Dog-fish – The Sturgeon – Enormous Fecundity – Caviare – The Bony Fishes – The Flying Fish: its Feats; its Enemies – Youth of a Salmon – The Parr, the Smolt, and the Grilse – Flourishes in the Sea – The Ponds at Stormontfield – The Salmon’s Enemies – The Ettrick Shepherd – Canned Salmon, and where it comes from – The Fish a drug in N. W. America – Canoes impeded by them – The Fisheries of the Columbia River – The Fishing Season – Modes of Catching Salmon – The Factories and Processes employed 159
Chapter XV Ocean Life – The Harvest of the Sea (concluded)
The Clupedœ – The Herring – Its Cabalistic Marks – A Warning to Royalty – The “Great Fishery” – Modes of Fishing – A Night with the Wick Fishermen – Suicidal Fish – The Value of Deep-sea Fisheries – Report of the Commissioners – Fecundity of the Herring – No fear of Fish Famine – The Shad – The Sprat – The Cornish Pilchard Fisheries – The “Huer” – Raising the “Tuck” – A Grand Harvest – Gigantic Holibut – Newfoundland Cod Fisheries – Brutalities of Tunny Fishing – The Mackerel – Its Courage, and Love of Man – Garum Sauce – The formidable Sword-fish – Fishing by Torchlight – Sword through a Ship’s side – General Remarks on Fish – Fish Life – Conversation – Musical Fish – Pleasures and Excitements – Do Fish sleep? 168
Chapter XVI Monsters of the Deep
Mark Twain on Whales – A New Version of an Old Story – Whale as Food – Whaling in 1670 – The Great Mammal’s Enemy the “Killer” – The Animal’s Home – The so-called Fisheries – The Sperm Whale – Spermaceti – The Chase – The Capture – A Mythical Monster – The Great Sea Serpent – Yarns from Norway – An Archdeacon’s Testimony – Stories from America – From Greenland – Mahone Bay – A Tropical Sea Serpent – What is the Animal? – Seen on a Voyage to India – Off the Coast of Africa – Other Accounts – Professor Owen on the Subject – Other Theories 179
Chapter XVII By the Sea-Shore
English Appreciation of the Sea-side – Its Variety and Interest – Heavy Weather – The Green Waves – On the Cliffs – The Sea from there – Madame de Gasparin’s Reveries – Description of a Tempest – The Voice of God – Calm – A Great Medusa off the Coast – Night on the Sea – Boating Excursion – In a Cavern – Colonies of Sea-anemones – Rock Pools – Southey’s Description – Treasures for the Aquarium – A Rat Story – Rapid Influx of Tide and its Dangers – Melancholy Fate of a Family – Life under Water 190
Chapter XVIII By the Sea-Shore (continued)
A Submerged Forest – Grandeur of Devonshire Cliffs – Castellated Walls – A Natural Palace – Collection of Sea-weeds – The Title a Miserable Misnomer – The Bladder Wrack – Practical Uses – The Harvest-time for Collectors – The Huge Laminaria – Good for Knife-handles – Marine Rope – The Red-Seeded Group – Munchausen’s Gin Tree Beaten – The Coralline a Vegetable – Beautiful Varieties – Irish Moss – The Green Seeds – Hints on Preserving Sea-weeds – The Boring Pholas – How they Drill – Sometimes through each other – The Spinous Cockle – The “Red-noses” – Hundreds of Peasantry Saved from Starvation – “Rubbish,” and the difficulty of obtaining it – Results of a Basketful – The Contents of a Shrimper’s Net – Miniature Fish of the Shore 199
Chapter XIX Sketches of our Coasts – Cornwall
The Land’s End – Cornwall and her Contributions to the Navy – The Great Botallack Mine – Curious Sight Outwardly – Plugging Out the Atlantic Ocean – The Roar of the Sear Heard Inside – In a Storm – The Miner’s Fears – The Loggan Stone – A Foolish Lieutenant and his Little Joke – The Penalty – The once-feared Wolf Rock – Revolving Lights – Are they Advantageous to the Mariner? – Smuggling in Cornwall – A Coastguardsman Smuggler – Landing 150 Kegs under the Noses of the Officers – A Cornish Fishing-town – Looe, the Ancient – The Old Bridge – Beauty of the Place from a Distance – Closer Inspection – Picturesque Streets –The Inhabitants – Looe Island and the Rats – A Novel Mode of Extirpation – The Poor of Cornwall Better Off than Elsewhere – Mines and Fisheries – Working on “Tribute” – Profits of the Pilchard Season – Cornish Hospitality and Gratitude 207
Chapter XX Sketches of our Coasts – Cornwall (continued)
Wilkie Collins’s Experiences as a Pedestrian – Taken for “Mapper,” “Trodger,” and Hawker – An Exciting Wreck at Penzance – The Life-line sent out – An Obstinate Captain – A Brave Coastguardsman – Five Courageous Young Ladies – Falmouth and Sir Walter Raleigh – Its Rapid Growth – One of its Institutions – A Dollar Mine – Religious Fishermen – The Lizard and its Associations for Voyagers – Origin of the Name – Mount St. Michael the Picturesque – Her Majesty’s Visit – An Heroic Rescue at Plymouth – Another Gallant Rescue 218
Chapter XXI Sketches of our South Coasts – Southampton
Southampton: its Antiquity – Extensive Commerce – Great Port for Leading Steamship Lines – Vagaries of a Runway Steamer – The Isle of Wight – Terrible Loss of the Eurydice – Finding of the Court-martial – Raising Her from the Bottom – “London by the Seaside” – Newhaven and Seaford – Beach Head – An Attempt to Scale it – A Wreck there – Knowledge Useful on an Emergency – Saved by Samphire – The Coast-guard: Past and Present – Their Comparatively Pleasant Lot To-day – The Coast-guard in the Smuggler Days – Sympathies of the Country against them 225
Chapter XXII Sketches of our South Coasts (concluded)
Eastbourne and its Quiet Charms – Hastings – Its Fishermen – The Battle of Hastings – Loss of the Grosser Kurfürst – The Collision – The Catastrophe – Dover – The Castle – Shakespeare’s Cliff – “O’er the Downs so free” – St. Margaret’s Bay – Kingsdown – Deal – A Deed of Daring – Ramsgate and Margate – The Floating Light on the Goodwin Sands – Ballantyne’s Voluntary Imprisonment – His Experiences – The Craft – The Light – One Thousand Wild Ducks caught – A Signal from the “South Sand Head” – The Answer – Life on Board 235
Chapter XXIII Sketches of our East Coasts: - Norfolk – Yorkshire
Harwich; its fine Harbour – Thorpeness and its Hero – Beautiful Situation of Lowestoft – Yarmouth; its Antiquity – Quays, Bridges – The Roadstead – Herring and Mackerel Fishing – Curing Red Herrings and Bloaters – A Struggle for Life – Encroachments of the Sea – A Dangerous Coast – Flamborough Head – Perils of the Yorkshire Fisherman’s Life – “The sea gat him!” – Filey and its Quiet Attractions – Natural Breakwater – A Sad Tale of the Sea – Scarborough; Ancient Records – The Terrible and the Gay – The Coupland Helpless – Lifeboat out – Her men thrown out – Boat crushed against Sea Wall – Two Killed – Futile Attempts at Rescue – A Lady’s Description of a Scarborough Gale – Whitby – Robin Hood’s Bay – An Undermined Town 247
Chapter XXIV The Art of Swimming – Feats in Natation – Life Savers
Lord Byron and the Hellespont – The Art of Swimming a Necessary Accomplishment – The Numbers Lost from Drowning – A Lamentable Accident – Captain Webb’s Advice to Beginners – Bold and Timid Lads – Best Places to Learn in – Necessity of Commencing Properly – The Secret of a Good Stroke – Useful and Ornamental Natation – Diving – Advice – Possibilities of Serious Injury – Inventions for Aiding Swimming and Floating – The Boyton Dress – Matthew Webb – Brave Attempt to Save a Comrade – The Great Channel Swim – Twenty-Two Hours in the Sea – Stung by a Jelly-Fish – Red Light on the Waters – Cape Grisnez at Hand – Exhaustion of the Swimmer – Fears of Collapse – Triumphant Landing on Calais Sands – Webb’s Feelings – An Ingenious Sailor Saved by Wine-bottles – Life Savers – Thomas Fowell Buxton – Ellerthorpe – Lambert – The “Hero of the Clyde” – His Brave Deeds – Funny Instances – The Crowning Feat – Blinded and Neglected – Appreciation at Last 257
Chapter XXV The Haven at Last – Home in the Thames
The “Mighty Thames” – Poor Jack Home Again – Provident Sailors – The Belvedere Home and its Inmates – A Ship Ashore – Rival Castaways – Greenwich Pensioners – The Present System Compared with the Old – Freedom Outside the Hospital – The Observatory – The Astronomer Royal – Modern Belief in Astrology – Site of Greenwich Park – Telescopes and Observations – The Clock which Sets the Time for all England – Sad Reminiscences – The Loss of the Princess Alice – The Old Dreadnought – The Largest Floating Hospital in the World – The Trinity House: Its Constitutions, Purposes, and Uses – Lighthouses and Light-vessels – Its Masters 272
Chapter XXVI What Poets Have Sung of the Sea, the Sailor, and the Ship
The Poets of the Sea still Wanting – Biblical Allusions – The Classical Writers – Want of True Sympathy with the Subject – Virgil’s “Æneid” – His Stage Storms – The Immortal Bard – His Intimate Acquaintance with the Sea and the Sailor – The Golden Days of Maritime Enterprise – The Tempest – Miranda’s Compassion – Pranks of the “Airy Spirit” – The Merchant of Venice – Piracy in Shakespeare’s Days – A Birth at Sea – Cymbeline: the Queen’s Description of our Isle – Byron’s “Ocean” – Falconer’s “Shipwreck” – His Technical Knowledge – The “True Ring” – The Dibdins – “Tom Bowling” – “The Boatman of the Downs” – Three Touching Poems – Mrs. Hemans, Longfellow, and Kingsley – Browning’s “Hervé Riel” – The True Breton Pilot – A New Departure – Hood’s “Demon Ship” – Popular Songs of the Day – Conclusion 290